Rail Bikes In The Adirondacks -- Travel Thursday (August 13, 2015)

We are back from our annual family vacation in the Adirondacks of upstate New York -- thus explaining the short hiatus from posting here at The Prism.

Pictured above is a four-person "rail bike" that is powered in the same manner as a recumbent bicycle  -- by pedaling with one's feet from a sitting or slightly reclining position.  The rail bikes are custom made and come in two-person or four-person versions.  Two weeks ago today our family boarded two of the four-person rail bikes that we had reserved many weeks earlier for the inaugural season of this unique outdoor experience.  Three generations of the family went for a roughly 6-mile trek on the rails between Lake Clear Junction and Saranac Lake. [Many thanks to daughter-in-law Pamela for discovering this opportunity and for making the arrangements!] 

As some background to this Adirondack experience, a little railroad history is in order. 

In 1890, William Seward Webb, the husband of a Vanderbilt heiress, financed the construction of a railroad (the Mohawk & Malone Railway) through the Adirondack wilderness so he could more conveniently reach his Great Camp known as Nehasane Park.  Webb's railroad later became part of the New York Central Railroad (NYC) system that carried wealthy families such as the Roosevelts, Whitneys, Morgans, Vanderbilts, and others to their Great Camps in the Adirondacks.

By 1961 sections of the railroad line were abandoned, but passenger service from Utica to Lake Placid (known as the Adirondack Division) continued scheduled service until April 1965.  Then in 1968 the NYC merged with rival Pennsylvania Railroad to form Penn Central.  Although Penn Central went into bankruptcy in 1970, declining freight service on the line continued until about 1972 when Penn Central applied to the NY Public Service Commission to abandon the line.  In 1975 the state of New York purchased the abandoned line and it remained essentially dormant and decaying from then on with one notable exception -- an ephemeral return to service for the 1980 Winter Olympic Games in 1980 in order to run passengers from Utica to Lake Placid.

In 1992, some railroad enthusiasts formed in order to found and operate a 4-mile section of track as the Adirondack Centennial Railroad (ACR).  When more than 50,000 passengers took advantage of the ride in the first season, the state allowed continued passenger service on an expanded section and in the summer of 1994 the ACR morphed into the Adirondack Scenic Railroad operated by the not-for-profit Adirondack Railway Preservation Society, Inc.

In the six years between 1994 and 2000, the Adirondack Scenic Railroad restored sections of rail so that passenger service could operate between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake and other sections much further to the south. However, the tracks between Big Moose Lake to the southwest of Lake Clear and Saranac Lake to the east of Lake Clear -- some 60 miles or more that includes the Lake Clear Junction to Saranac Lake leg -- needs a great deal of work to make it safe for sustained passenger train service. In the meantime, the state of New York designated the corridor as a multi-use area for limited seasonal rail traffic and as a snowmobile trail during the winter. This left an opening for the creative entrepreneurs behind "Rail Explorers."

The rail bikes now traverse the six miles of track between Lake Clear Junction and Saranac Lake and thus open this wooded corridor among the lakes and remote meadows along the route for the first time since 1980 -- and without what many consider the intrusive noise and pollution that can be caused by vintage trains. The run from Lake Clear to Lake Saranac is particularly easy given the long stretches of downhill track that allow a whizzing ride with little or no effort by the riders.  The uphill reverse route from Lake Saranac to Lake Clear Junction is another story, but it can be done by almost anyone with a bit more effort. The specially built Adirondack rail bikes are the first in America and the season is very limited, so this is an experience that needs to be planned.  

But the future of this unique Adirondack experience may be in some doubt.  Just this past June, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (the DEC) along with the Department of Transportation (DOT) stated that they will amend the unit management plan for the Remsen to Lake Placid rail corridor.  They reason that since the Adirondack Scenic Railroad runs tourist excursions on small sections of track, the vast majority of the line's midsection between Thendara and Lake Placid (including Lake Clear Junction to Lake Saranac) is unused.  The new DEC/DOT proposal calls for the removal of tracks from Tupper Lake through Lake Clear Junction to Lake Placid in order to construct a 34-mile long route for hikers, cyclists, cross country skiers, and snowmobilers.  The plan has wide support from the Adirondack Rail Trail Advocates.  The plan would also restore 44 miles of passenger rail service through backcountry wilderness to Tupper Lake from points south and the village of Tupper Lake has already completed restoration of its train depot in anticipation of this development.  More about the proposed plan can be seen here.

It is highly recommended that if you are in the high peaks area of the Adirondacks this summer, you should take in this unique outdoor experience.  While we hope the rail bikes have a future in the Adirondacks, use of the current rail bike route conflicts with the DEC/DOT stated corridor plan and therefore the Lake Clear to Saranac Lake experience might be a fond memory a few short seasons from now.

Rail Explorers staff members prepare rail bikes for the run from Lake Clear Junction to Saranac Lake.

All aboard!  The lead bike in our two four-seaters. [Yours truly in the olive drab hat.]

Our second four-seater with son (Christopher) in the headband, sister-in-law (Kathy), and brother-in-law (Patrick).

The rail bikes do not travel linked together. At least 30 feet is required between bikes during
travel. This photo shows the rubber bumpers to absorb any inadvertent contact when gathering
for the few road crossings, which are supervised by traffic flagmen provided by Rail Explorers.

Son (Jonathan) with our granddaughter Nora snuggled in for the ride!

Gathering for a view across backcountry meadows.  Yours truly pointing out some interesting flora.  Nora with her parents Jonathan and Pamela and Christopher all paying rapt attention.

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All photographs taken on July 30, 2015.  All images above are from the originals in the collection of the author.

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Copyright 2015, John D. Tew

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Travel Thursday (July 9, 2015) -- Northville-Placid Trail Part 13 [AFTERWORD]

After following these trail markers for almost ten days and about 125 miles, Jonathan and I arrived at the trail's end at Lake Placid.  We were picked up by the family and had a victory party back at the camp that evening.  The next day was spent drying out, cleaning, and repacking the gear as we prepared for the drive back home to Virginia.  It was an "epic" family adventure that has provided memories and stories for over a decade and a half now.  Each of us had his or her challenges and victories.

Some weeks after returning to Virginia, I submitted a "Record of Trip" trail report to the Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK) -- to which I belonged at the time and for several years afterward.  The trail report was a courtesy to help maintain awareness of the condition of the trail, wildlife seen along the way, the status of lean-tos and outhouses, etc.  The trail report was also a requirement for obtaining the End-to-End Award, a badge/"patch" designed to be sewn on a pack or jacket.  

Before the year 1998 was out, Jonathan and I received our End-to-End patches.  A scan of my patch is shown immediately below. . . 

We completed the N-P Trail in the summer of 1998 and used the 1994 edition of the Guide to Adirondack Trails: NORTHVILLE-PLACID TRAIL during our trek.  That guide book states at pp. 11-12 with respect to the End-to-End Award . . . 

          "Almost a thousand individuals (1993) have become recorded End-to-Enders of the Northville-Placid Trail since 1922, the year ADK cut the trail.  One person (Richard Denker, 1973) completed the trail in an unbelievable 40 hours.  Another hiker (Orra Phelps) took a little longer.  She began in 1928 and didn't do the last section until 1978, 50 years later.  Most people explore the trail in sections over a period of years.  Few hikers initially start with the idea of completing the whole trail; rather they become curious about adjoining parts of the trail.  Eventually they may finish the whole route.  The trail offers not a race to be won, but an opportunity to enter and gradually come to understand a great wilderness forest.

          The Schenectady Chapter of ADK offers a large patch to "End-to-Enders."  (To allow for present-day realities and to keep hikers from having to walk on highways, ADK regards the end points of the trail as the Godfrey Road parking area at the Northville end and the Chubb River bridge at the Lake Placid end.)  The patch is blue on white, similar to the trail markers formerly used on the trail.  It can be sewn on a pack or jacket.  It is available to ADK members and non-members, and both to those who complete the trail in sections over a period of years and those who finish it in one trip.  There is a small charge for the patch to cover maintenance of the program.  Those wishing to obtain a patch should first apply for a "Record of Trip" form . . ."

A few years after we completed the N-P Trail, my former law partner -- who so kindly dropped the family at the Northville trailhead and accompanied us with his son on the first few miles of the trail -- became an End-to Ender himself!    

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All images are from original artifacts in the family collection.

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Copyright 2015, John D. Tew

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Travel Thursday (April 2, 2015) -- Northville-Placid Trail Part 12

Day 10, Tuesday, August 18

Up at 6:15 & after getting packs & bear bag down and re-packed we are ready to go on to Averyville Rd. & the completion of the N-LP Trail! Breakfast will be the last of the pop tarts, last of the lemonade, & some granola bars. It looks grey and rainy as we head out after major foot repair at 7:50 AM!

Jonathan signals our last day on the trail as we get ready to leave Cold River lean-to 

Jonathan's major foot repair for the last day. The purple is the much loved horse wrap!

Got to the shelter at Moose Pond at 10:15 -- just as it began to lightly mist & sprinkle.  OUR LUCK!

View from Moose Pond lean-to

The trail from Duck Hole to Moose Pond has been the worst ever. Muck hole after muck hole after muck hole. JPT measured one bog at 1 1/2 feet deep. Not only the boot sucking muck, but the trail is all overgrown up to eye level at points & the lead hiker has to find the trail with each step & can't help swiping the following hiker. This has been a most difficult section & we're damn glad it is over! Hope the next section to Wanika Falls where we plan to have lunch is easier, but somehow I doubt it will be. 

Yes, the trail goes right through the middle of this watery blowdown mess

More trail section through blowdown and watery bog

A chipmunk came right up to us here at the shelter & against all the rules we gave him some peanuts & cashews. Humming birds are feeding next to us in a 10 ft. x 6 ft. clump of Jewel Weed going from orange blossom to orange blossom.

The chipmunk that greeted us at Moose Pond lean-to

Patch of Jewel Weed at Moose Pond lean-to where hummingbirds buzzed in and fed while we watched

Back on the trail at 10:30. We made Wanika Falls before 12:00, but lost the trail there! A Northface tent was set up in a clearing on the far side of the river with no one there. It was soaked & had a pack, sleeping pad, sleeping bag & moccasins inside. We called several times, but no one answered. Searched for the trail & the Wanika shelter for over an hour. We even blew our emergency whistle but no response.  Tried several false trails & bushwhacked to try & pick up the trail, but couldn't. Finally, we got out our compass, oriented the map, & backtracked to find we missed a sign post that was not obvious. Lost over an hour with these exercises & all but skipped through lunch -- though we filled water at the falls. Had some gorp & granola bars.

Wanika Falls

The 13 miles today was worse than the 18 yesterday & the trail was abysmal. More muck than ever & the trail was overgrown for miles so that one had to push aside immature maples & spruce to find the trail.

Reached Averyville Rd. at 4:03 PM.  9 days 7 hours and 43 minutes after starting north on the trail! 

John at the Lake Placid terminus on Averyville Road

Jonathan at the Lake Placid terminus on Averyville Road caption

For only the third time on the trail, we got a cell on the phone & were able to call G&G for a ride home. [Oddly, when we tried the phone at G&G's camp we could not get a cell.]

JPT and I relaxed with our packs off and briefly discussed our trip & the trail with a gentleman whose wife was from Northville & wanted to check the register at the trail terminus to see if anyone from Northville she might know had arrived!? 

We sipped water, munched the last granola bars & sat there feeling our feet throb. Much sooner than we expected, G, G, Molly & Christopher arrived with a pizza & a six pack -- half cold cokes & half cold Saranac beers. In minutes the packs were in the trunk, we were all crammed into the car (JPT and I still in our muddy, sweat soaked rain suits) and off to G&G's camp on Lake Placid. After hot showers & intermittent trail stories we sat down to a wonderful hot dinner of macaroni & cheese, tomato & lettuce salad, wine & cake with vanilla ice cream and champagne toasts by John. 

The sign that Christopher made to greet us on return to Grandma and Grandpa's camp on Lake Placid

Clean-up of the gear will just have to wait until tomorrow but . . . WE DID IT -- ALL 122 MILES!!

John lost 8 pounds while on the trail and JPT lost 10 pounds!

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Additional Glossary terms:

Camp -- in the Adirondacks, a vacation home on a lake, pond or river is not called a cottage or a cabin. It is referred to as a "camp" and the large, old, historically luxurious camps (usually with multiple buildings) are called "Great Camps." 

Bushwhacking -- refers to travel in wild or uncultivated country especially where one has to push one's way through often times dense vegetation to make any headway.

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All images used are from originals in the family collection.

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Copyright 2015, John D. Tew

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Travel Thursday (March 26, 2015) -- Northville-Placid Trail Part 11

Day 9, Monday, August 17

Up at 5:51, I got down the bear bag & packs, prepared breakfast drink & got food out, packed my sleeping bag, mattress and pillow and let JPT sleep in until 6:41 after I washed my face in the lake.

Major foot prep to do today as we are going for Cold River lean-tos 1&2 -- 18 miles north on the trail. Aim is to be hiking by 7:30!

NPT Day 9 -- On the way to Cold River lean-tos

NPT Day 9 - Getting closer to Cold River lean-tos

On the trail at 7:39. Arrived at Plumley lean-tos (last ones on Long Lake) at about 9:10 & left again at 9:30. The Plumley lean-to was occupied by two men and a woman with 3 teenaged boys. They obviousl came in by boat as they had three dining pavilions, a huge stand-up tent, a two burner Coleman stove & an industrial size propane gas stove all under a kitchen fly. There was a wooden bench with shelves full of food above it & Molson beer -- three 24-packs -- beside the lean-to. And they occupied the lean-to also! They were cooking a full breakfast of eggs & sausage with toast when we arrived to rest a moment. JPT repaired the unraveling line on my staff while I used the outhouse. We were offered to share their breakfast at their table with folding camp chairs, but politely declined & hit the trail at 9:30.

NPT Day 9 -- Approaching Cold River lean-tos #3 and #4

Arrived at the Cold River crossing (swinging bridge) and Cold River lean-tos #3 & 4 at 11:30 where we are having lunch, a quick dip & some foot repair before moving on. Lunch is salami & cheese wraps again, but no lemonade -- only 1 tub left & we want it for supper & our last breakfast tomorrow. Back on the trail at 1:34 after lunch, swim & MAJOR foot repair!

NPT Day 9 - Bridge over Cold River at Lean-tos #3 & #4

NPT Day 9 - Cold River from bridge

NPT Day 9 - Cold River looking upstream from the bridge

NPT Day - At Cold River lean-tos #3 & #4 for lunch break.  24 miles to go!

NPT Day 9 - The bridge over Cold River at Lean-tos #3 and #4

NPT Day 9 - A lunch of wraps at Cold River lean toe #3 and #4
[Note the gear drying on the rocks in the background.]

Ouluska Falls lean-to reached at 3:50. Decided to go on to Cold River lean-to #1 & 2. Left Ouluska at 4:02 PM and arrived at Cold River 1 & 2 very tired and soaked in perspiration at 5:45 PM. We found a fellow in one of the lean-tos & chatted briefly before going across the grassy trail to claim the other lean-to. The fellow is from Massachusetts north of Pittsfield & is hiking south to Indian Lake to meet friends. We did not get his name, but exchanged info on trail conditions, etc.

Not a happy camper! Jonathan at Cold River lean-to #2 after a long 18-mile day and before supper and a dip in the river. This is our last night on the trail!

After finding our bear bag location, we loaded all but our dinner -- PB&J on wraps with water -- & our personal bags for brushing our teeth. We went down to the Cold River, stripped down and found places to sit in the mild rapids & let the cool water bath us & massage our aching feet. We ate on the rocks & got water iodine for tomorrow when we'll make up all of our last lemonade for the final 13 miles into Lake Placid. We plan our usual early rise to get to Averyville Rd. by 3:00 if possible. We're a bit worried about the phone since we always forgot to re-charge at food drops & we discovered it somehow got turned on in J's pack. Hope we have a cell & enough juice to call for our pick-up! Tried tonight & got "no service" yet again.

Foot repair will be a top priority in the morning as the miles are taking their toll & John stubbed his toe on a rock in Cold River at lunch and took a large flap of skin off his left big toe. Luckily we stocked up on gauze and tape in Long Lake & still have a full & partial roll of horse wrap & some mole skin sheets.

The hike today was very mixed -- still lots of black boot sucking bogs, but less frequent. Long lengths of pine cushioned smooth walkways amid tall spruces on either side, but then lots of undulating root & rock covered narrow trail around Long Lake -- a very long lake indeed! And then after deciding to push on the additional 4+miles from Ouluska Falls to Cold River 1&2, we had long, steady, grueling uphills that left us drenched in sweat & consuming water at an alarming rate.

The hike along the Cold River below the Hermit's old home site was an absolute delight & we wished we could have stopped to swim numerous times, but had to make our 18 miles. This would be a beautiful section to revisit fro a leisurely several days!

At the campsite of Noah John Rondeau the "Hermit of Cold River"

Detritus at Rondeau's campsite

I am very impressed with JPT's backpacking ability. He s able to set and hold a steady, quick pace for miles & never complains. He is a joy to hike with & I know I could never have done this without him. He is quite young man & I think will develop a real love of the outdoors. These last days have been special ones I'll cherish for years to come.

I am also extremely proud of Christopher for his accomplishment of 25 miles in real wilderness -- mrs than I ever did at 12! He'll develop into a good hiker/backpacker too if he learns to like it.

Molly is a wonder. I know of no other woman of my acquaintance who would even contemplate, much less actually do, 70 miles of true wilderness backpacking. I'm glad she asked to come along even if her primary motivation may have been to be there if my back went out. ;-) My back has been great though & I stretch morning and evening & take Motrin and valium before bed to keep loose through the night. The last 3 nights have been wonderful sleeping nights.

Saw lots of great sights again today & took many photos to show everyone if they turn out. Saw several mergansers float down the Cold River at lean-to 3&4 rapids past us at lunch & then saw some again (the same ones?) going up stream past us as we bathed & ate dinner on the Cold River at lean-tos 1&2.

JPT and I are exhausted after 18 full miles today.  He is asleep as I finish this & I soon will be -- the hypnotic rush of the near-by Cold River tens to lull one quickly to sleep as the night air cools and the darkness closes in.

Tomorrow we will actually finish this trail -- 122 miles in just under 10 days! An accomplishment we will talk about for years to come. Tonight I finally know we will become N-LP through-hikers & JPT and I look forward to pizza, beer & cokes in celebration. This has been a true family experience & I am a happy man blessed with a supportive family!

It is 9:24 PM as I end this day's entry and lay back to let the Cold River lull me to sleep to prepare for tomorrow.

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All images used are from originals in the family collection.

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Copyright 2015, John D. Tew

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Travel Thursday (March 19, 2015) -- Northville-Placid Trail Part 10

                

Day 8, Sunday, August 16

Up at 6:00 AM on a grey but mild morning. None of the six others in camp are up yet so we are being as quiet as possible. We'll have a trail breakfast of pop tarts, granola bars & lemonade. On the trail to Long Lake at 7:38 AM.

Leaving Tirrell Pond in the early morning on our way to Long Lake Village 

JPT on a trail bridge from Tirrell Pond to Rte 28N

John on a trail bridge from Tirrell Pond to Rte. 28N

Arrived at NY Route 28 at 12:06 after climbing horrendous uphill section & crossing an amazing 1/2 mile long plank boardwalk.  We decided to try to hitch a ride into the village of Long Lake on some friendly truck rather than hike 1.5 miles each way out of way. We'll try our luck for a bit & then continue the trail if no one takes pity on us!

A section of the 1/2 mile long plank boardwalk

JPT as we emerge from the trail at Rte. 28N just outside Long Lake Village

Within 10 minutes a kind couple in a pick-up truck stopped & drove us and our packs into Long Lake and dropped us at the Laundromat attached to a closed auto shop. We put our towels, the shirts and socks we had on & some other dirty clothes into a washer ($1.25 plus 50 cents for a small box of All), then we shouldered our packs and hiked down a few hundred yards to a Stewart's Shop where we each bought a coke and then called Grandma on the pay phone to report our progress ("no service" again on the cell phone). We sat at one of Stewart' shaded picnic tables to have lunch of salami & provolone on wraps with our cokes. We placed our boots in the sun in the parking lot and gave our feet a chance to air dry.

Jonathan happy at our lunch stop at Stewart's in Long Lake Village (notice boots in the sun)

We need to get a few supplies -- camera battery, more bug repellent, some foot repair items -- and then our main worry is finding a kind soul to transport us the 1.5 miles uphill on Route 28 back to the trail. Of course we have to go dry our laundry and repack first. It's now 1:28 so we have been off the trail for just over an hour and 20 minutes.

A very kind man going into Long Lake saw us standing by Stewart's and slowed to offer to turn around & take us back to the trailhead in his truck. Once back at the trail, we thanked him very much for his good deed. We signed the trail register at 3:15 PM & made Kelly Point lean-to at 4:43.

Getting back on the trail after our stop in Long Lake Village.  36.4 miles to go!

Our lean-to at Kelly Point on Long Lake.

Two days to go now and I'm really beginning to believe we will finish. Time will tell!

We did have some delay this morning at Tirrell Pond when we untied our bear bag early in the morning & it just stayed there in the air! The rope was wedged tightly into the "V" in the hanging branch & we couldn't get it to budge. Finally I unwrapped my walking staff and used the emergency reaching hook that's been wrapped under the emergency line/handgrip for almost 6 years. The hook screwed into the top of the staff & we hooked the carabiner & dragged down the bear bag. 

When we went to the beach to get water to iodine for our trek, we met one of the 4 Ohio folks (Eric) from last night. He was paddling in one of the aluminum canoes using two pieces of wood the size of large books -- one in each hand -- and moved slowly toward us. We all watched a group of about 10 - 12 mergansers make all kinds of commotion in the shallows fishing for small fry, completely oblivious or unconcerned with our presence. Eric told us they tried to use our bear bag but couldn't get everything up -- so he thought they got it jammed for us. He told us they ended up putting their food into a canoe out in the lake! We explained how we got the bear bag down, said goodbye & were on our way. 

We again set a very quick but steady pace that got us into a rhythm that was easier than our earlier stop & go.  The upgrade was quite strenuous & we agreed it was best that M & C had not attempted this part of the trail. The muddy bogs are still with us, but much less frequent and large. 

An old screened-in spring house off in the woods along the trail up Long Lake

Supper tonight was those rice dinners I purchased at Giant & JPT really liked the rice and chicken, but not the rice with broccoli & cheddar cheese -- though we each ate half of both!

We were very thirsty today after our exertion & each consumed 5 cups of lemonade with supper along with our usual hot chocolate and tea. Had a very small fire to try to keep deer flies away (the insect varmint of choice tonight) and also used the fire to burn our oven bags that we cooked supper in.

Once again we hung our packs as well as the bear bag since the guidebook warns again that the site is a favorite for raccoons & porcupines. We have yet to have any nocturnal visitors & we want to keep it that way.

Hanging our packs at Kelly lean-to

We enjoyed two swims tonight -- one immediately upon arrival and setting up in the lean-to in order to wash off the trail sweat & grime & cool our aching feet. The other swim was just before going to bed at 7:00. I read JPT yesterday's journal entry & we listened to the family in the shelter 60 feet from ours for a few minutes -- no noteworthy items of conversation -- but we hope they are clean campers & don't attract animals into our common sites. We're a little dubious as it seems they canoed in & carried lots of gear up in what appears to be open, empty white drywall joint compound buckets! We've done what we can to secure our site, so we hope the critters visit the neighbors & not us. 

JPT is asleep now. We have a wonderful breeze coming off the lake and look forward to a deep, restful night before we attempt somewhere between 14 and 18 miles tomorrow! It is 8:50 PM as I put down the pen and listen to the wind come over the water & up onto our point overlooking Long Lake.

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All images from originals in the family collection.

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Copyright 2015, John D. Tew

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